Date: 06/01/2019-06/04/2019
You know how people tend to write off long distance travel? Like, how those people will say: “Jetlag doesn’t really get to me,” or “I can fly all day, and sleep the whole gosh-diddily-ding-dong time?” We all know people, or at the very least some-one like that. And I can say, with conviction that I am NOT one of them.
Leaving behind two loving and supportive parents (the mother in that parental set was very strong I must say; I was very proud), I stepped onto the first of several planes headed toward Philadelphia. Hence the previous post. Afterward, we rose – if we could sleep at all – to board a bus, driving from two in the morning until five thirty when we arrived at JFK in Queens, New York. When the Qatar Airlines check-in personnel arrived to begin their shifts at seven, checking bags and getting through security was relatively painless. And if you haven’t flown on Qatar Airlines, I highly recommend that you do! There’s a reason they’ve been ranked the number one airline for so many years. It was also a welcome bit of luxury, even flying Economy class, that we figured we would have much of.
There was a layover in Doha, Qatar, arriving around six-o-clock in the morning their time. Doha International Airport was gigantic, quiet, and very clean. The employees were all very patient and kind. And we even got to step foot on Qatar soil, since we had to be shuttled to our next flight.
Little more than five hours later, we arrived in Entebee, just fifty or so kilometers from the capital city of Uganda: Kampala. We were exhausted. We were excited. We were diligent in the collection of our belongings and truthful in our customs’ statements that we were not carriers of Ebola. And there were a fair number of us in desperate need of the restroom as we bused our group to our Pre-Service Training site: Muzardi.
Pictures do this agricultural research site some justice, but only slightly. Lush and green, with chickens, pigs, and the employees’ pets all about, the simple, but ingenious innovations of the research projects were all around us. And that only made the wonder of this private space all the more special.
As it turns out, there were still some surprising luxuries that awaited us here. Beds adorned with treated mosquito nets, a small writing desk – one for each room’s resident, a standing closet, with fresh sheets, towels, and the offering of daily cleaning and turndown service, if we so chose. Meals are prepared by a team of wonderful cooks, and these ladies know how to make a staple food into a scrumptious and highly anticipated treat for us to enjoy.
Our evenings are spent together, shared among drinks, or pool, or music, or simply sitting out in the night-time air. The evenings can be surprisingly relaxing, and I find it humorous how my fellow trainees think the balmy, breezy day-light hours are too hot, and the cool and comfortable nights are too cold. But me? This is wonderful. It’d be paradise if a new round of allergic reactions to all this green didn’t waste anytime getting to me upon our arrival.
06/05/2019
Well, so much for not being able to contact home for at least three weeks after arrival in country. Peace Corps surprised us with minutes on our work phones to call home. And I was lucky enough to call my mom on her birthday. Afterwards, we were instructed on how to handwash our clothes and how to use and maintain the cleanliness of pit latrines. Pit latrines are quite the common sight, here and all around the world. And let’s just say that I’m glad I don’t skip leg day, because all those squats will come in handy. We also covered – very briefly – the four primary objectives of the 2019-2026 health initiative and where we, as Peace Corps volunteers, will fit in it. They include: Maternal and Child Health, OVC (Orphaned and Vulnerable Children), Youth and HIV, and Capacity Building.
06/07/2019
Today was the day of my interview with the Program Manager and Program Facilitator for the Health sector of the Peace Corps for finalizing site placement and language. Of the regions that we would potentially occupy, I would prefer to be near water, such as a river or a lake, or in the district that is more mountainous. I suspect I will be living in a compound from what the discussion of the interview was leading toward. From the sound of it, my primary health objective will be the fourth listed above: Capacity Building. The potential compound sound like its own town, with schools, vocational training establishments, and medical facilities that specialize in certain types of healthcare. It’s pretty exciting to think about, but nothing is final until the site announcement. Which is still several weeks away.
06/08/2019
Near Muzardi is the town of Mukoro, where we spent part of the day as we collected our sim cards for our personal cell phones. But that was where we encountered some hurdles to overcome. I jokingly said that, with so many issues with our passports and fingerprints, that they had to call the State Department, but I learned that that was somewhat the case. They did have to get new copies of our passports and visas, because the ones they were given before were insufficient. After returning for lessons, we covered social norms and some basic survival skills. We also had a couple very powerful thunderstorms, which were very much appreciated, if they didn’t force us to keep our clothes on the drying line all the longer. The cooks of Muzardi surprised us with French fries and fried chicken, and I’m becoming a big fan of African milk tea, samosas, their bran muffins, fried plantains (matooke), and pretty much most of the food I’ve come across. Things have been good thus far.
06/09/2019
Today was a day with an abundance of free time and more plenty more rain to continue preventing our laundry from drying. To escape the now-familiar face of Muzardi, we were invited to the Chakig Eco-Tourism Center. While there we were involved in a spectacular nature walk, an active working farm, and a fertile herbal garden, which were all helped to get off the ground by two former Peace Corps Volunteers. It was nice and inspiring to see sustainable projects built by volunteers like us, still in effect years after they returned home. In the evening, a group of us walked around Mukoro town, waving to all kinds of children, walking with them, all beaming impossibly infectious smiles, before watching a short live football match. It was a good way to close out a good day.
06/11/2019
The adventures of getting a working personal phone has been trying, to put it lightly. Though it wasn’t in any fault of the Airtel employees. Representatives from Airtel arrived in Muzardi around four in the afternoon. Every person who did not receive an activation text since our visit to the local Airtel store had to have their documents, fingerprints, and photographs taken another two times (at least). Fortunately, they did not take our money for data and calling services until an activation code was received and all remaining necessary info was texted to their servers. This took until well past eight in the evening and not everyone had their phones activated. They would have to wait until another day.
Following this, there were several interesting conversations among us as to who would be the first to drop out of the Peace Corps early. To be honest, this possibility never crossed my mind until it was brought up tonight. This led to a series of discussions on patience and how we needed to adapt and adjust in order to keep up – ironically – with how things are done here in Uganda. This was ironic because time is very much relative in this country. Basically, it boils down to: the work will get done, but don’t rely on schedules too much, because life happens. But the work will still get done. So, we Americans will need to slow down to keep up with the people of Uganda. This might be as difficult and as important a task as learning our languages and cultural integration.
06/13/2019
The health volunteers went on a field trip to the Mukono Health Center IV in Mukono town today. It was there that we learned about their family planning services, immunization services, and antenatal and postnatal services. Some interesting facts about Uganda’s government sponsored healthcare for women and children: everything is free! Many, MANY of the same birth control options that we have in the states are available here. The main problems encountered include running out of supplies, and compliance/patient retention when it comes to routine immunizations and the like. The hospital personnel are also not able to reach everyone in the community that they’d like to. That being said, they still do amazing work. The nurses/midwives/sisters were all wonderful hosts, giving throughout and potent answers to our questions. It was also interesting how accepted it was (even by the patients) for us to literally just barge in on their sessions, led by our hospital hosts, of course. We saw newborns resting with their mothers following delivery and in recovery. The nurses also offered an interesting idea for reaching the predominantly Catholic population regarding family planning options: go into the communities for something different, such as cancer screening, and run a logical tangent into the conversations to tell them about their options – the point is to help them make an informed decision about all of their options.
06/15/2019
FINALLY! We finally have our language assignments! We will be having our introductory courses during our last week here in Muzardi in the language of Lumasaaba! Lumasaaba is spoken in the far east of Uganda in a land of “great mountains, crystal-clear waters, cool climates, fresh fruits, and gorgeous nature.” So yeah, pretty damn lucky and pretty damn excited!
06/16/2019
Today was our group journey to capital city: Kampala. We toured important landmarks and locations with a current Peace Corps Volunteer (PCV). Our guide showed the various PC approved and vetted hostels – which were very cool and very much my style, the mall which was large and quite lovely, but very, very expensive. As we learned, anything you could want could be purchased from the supermarket across the street from the mall, which was well evidenced by how busy it was. Everything in this supermarket was at least half-off what was priced in the mall. We walked to the PC Uganda HQ, relaxed in the volunteer lounge for a bit, and toured a few more of the exteriors of the variety of foreign embassies, but no photographs were allowed. We ate a late lunch at the Bush Pig hostel, and then took a taxi to the REAL Kampala. Everything in that first district we visited was practically lifeless compared to the Old and New Taxi parks. Milling through the chaotic marketplaces, there was attention and attractions in every direction. Despite all the tall buildings around us, I have absolutely no idea how anyone living or working inside them could even get inside. Riding in the taxis was an experience – it took over 20 minutes just to get out of the taxi park, but the ride back to Muzardi was relatively uneventful. The journey back was also very cheap, and despite it being in the afternoon, we were all rather sun-tired at that point, and so we called it a day rather early.
06/17/2019
Today the Health trainees had sessions devoted to Sexual and Reproductive Health and Safety lessons. To better facilitate, and to demonstrate fun and engaging ways to teach these lessons to children and youths in Uganda. We played a game of handball to teach how irresponsible behavior can impact more than one member of the community, we held a relay race of proper condom application and removal, and we made our own RUMPS (Re-Usable Menstrual Pads). These are cost effective, environmentally friendly, and sustainable methods of maintaining menstrual hygiene. They help to keep girls in schools (since the stigma and stereotypes surrounding menstruation often force girls out of their education), but it also empowers them to have control over their own bodies and their own wallets. Unfortunately, there’s no picture of my finished product because I failed miserably in the process of making my own RUMPS, but I’m sure I’ll have plenty of other opportunities in the coming two years.
06/18/2019
Five of us were assigned to St. Paul’s Boarding and Primary School outside of Mukono town to perform a needs assessment on a group of 7th graders, and their knowledge of personal hygiene. The kids were all looking sharp in their bright red uniforms, and the walls inside and outside the classroom were decorated with images, diagrams, and insightful pictures concerning subjects that we didn’t learn in the states until high school. They were all exceptionally well-behaved, respectful, and highly intelligent. They were actively engaged to answer our questions, and were exceptionally knowledgeable on many, many aspects of keeping themselves clean and healthy. They just lacked the opportunities to do so (i.e. no tippy-taps outside the latrines and shower areas).
06/19/2019
We returned to the same school, with the same kids, with an educational session on proper handwashing techniques and the benefits that we prepared for around two hours as a group. The session went extremely well, and the kids were all having fun, and willing to participate in the lectures, the demonstrations, and the games. Some of them were even better at hand washing than I was! Turns out that they taught me something about proper handwashing technique. The kids were all actively engaged yet again and having fun. It turned out to be a very positive experience for the five of us, especially when one of the girls asked if we would be coming back to teach them, and have fun with them, some more. It helped to bring all of us volunteer trainers closer together, realize how well, and how easily we work together, and how even a lesson prepared in less than a day can still have a big impact. We concluded our time there by giving the headmaster some resources to build a few tippy-taps for his school, and congratulated the headmaster on the terrific work he was doing and how he should be very proud.
06/20/2019
Today, we went into Kampala town to get our banking and ATM cards squared away, but the major event happened once we returned to MUZARDI. The Peace Corps Volunteer Trainers organized a truly touching and emotionally-bonding event for all of us. We sat in a circle, but with our backs to each other, and closed our eyes. Four or five individuals were selected per six or seven scenarios to tap the shoulders of those who matched the positive and inspirational affirmation that the leader recited. They ranged from “tap the shoulder of someone who made you smile today,” to “tap the shoulder of someone who inspires you,” to “tap someone who you’ve shared a secret with,” to “tap someone who you wish you knew more about,” to “tap someone on the shoulder you know will be a great Peace Corps Volunteer.” It was all anonymous. It was all wonderful. To be honest, I was feeling like I hadn’t bonded with many of my cohort here in Uganda, and that hampered my relationships with them as a result. But for every four to five “tappers,” for every six or seven questions, I was tapped at least two, three, or even four times. It was extremely uplifting, touching, and powerful. It absolutely brought us all closer together. We continued our bonding with music, and the USA v. Sweden football match broadcasted on a big, projected screen.
06/22/2019
Muzardi threw us a wonderful going-away party with food, music, dancing, and drinks. One last hurrah before we departed to our regions. It was naturally a lot of fun, but a fair few of us headed to bed at a reasonable hour as we had to finish packing and preparing for traveling.
06/23/2019
We headed to the Bugisu region in the east, and the capital city of Mbale. We actually ended up crossing the Nile, which originates from a mountain near Jinja town. Never thought I’d see the Nile without actually being in Egypt. We crossed and saw beautiful bridge and beautiful waters, with promised plans for returning for various water-based activities. Traveling to Mbale was around a five-plus hour journey from Kampala, but much of the trip was very smooth and uneventful. We passed through forested stretches, plains, and mountains. The first thing we noticed about Mbale was it is rather posh compared the other towns and cities we’ve visited/been a part of. Large sidewalks, the population is not so congested, and the city layout is well designed compared to others. We met met our homestay families: mine includes Pastor and Matriarch Katherine, and her relatives. Son Demas, Nephew E.D., Niece Stella, and Nephew Sam. She also has three other children, two working in Kampala and one starting his career as a local doctor: Derek, Deliverance, and Dennis, respectively. All of them are lovely, with a splendid home. Three bedrooms (one of which is mine), running water, electricity, a television, and a refrigerator for our boiled and purified water. The family is very proud of their family accomplishments: weddings and graduations adorn the walls and furnishings.
06/24/2019
First official eight-hour day of Lumasaaba language training, focusing on greeting and identifying oneself in Lumasaaba. Today was actually relatively uneventful, and certainly not challenging just yet. I returned home, and ate dinner alone, as families in Uganda typically eat very late, just before bed. Katherine’s son, the doctor Dennis, came to visit and met me. He was very sweet, smart, and offered me a standing invitation to the health center he’s working to open. I am excited to better learn about the work being done in this particular region with this particular population. We watched the All Nations Africa Cup of Nations with the family for a while before studying a bit before bed
06/25/2019
Language is getting harder to learn, verbs and their complex conjugations seem at times unnecessary, but it’s only day two. And while that is meant to be a comfort, it is also rather disconcerting, personally – it is only day two and I am struggling with language this much already… Regardless, we press on and eventually, these things will just click. Pastor Katherine had to travel into Kampala with family for the day, so for the first time, my homestay brothers, sister, and I ate dinner together, while watching more football on TV. I didn’t get much studying done, since I did laundry and did some shopping in town after classes were concluded. But it was still a very nice evening at home.
06/26/2019
Language isn’t getting any easier, but we were able to build a spreadsheet, after a fashion, of the verbs and how they are conjugated in the tenses we’ve learned so far, and practiced as a group, so that was helpful. We went into Mbale town to officially meet and introduce ourselves as Peace Corps volunteers to the LC-III and chief of police. The LC system of local governance was created by the current president of Uganda as a way of empowering and providing a people’s government that works from the bottom of society and makes its way up. LCs start at the local village level, ten members of that particular community are elected, and move up the population ladder. LC-I is village, LC-II is parish, LC-III is sub-county, LC-IV is county, and LC-V is district. It is just good manners to be known by your leaders, not as tourists, but as legitimate members of your community. At home, my family and I worked on a series of assignments to be completed, watched the Uganda – Zimbabwe Cup of Nation’s match, and then bed.
06/28/2019
My host family matron is also a pastor, and I was surprised to learn, that it is all too commonplace and accepted for certain protestant congregations to come together for prayer sessions… from 10 o’clock in at night until 3 o’clock in the morning!!! I don’t know how she was awake in the morning, but she was, so if anything, that should speak to the power of routine and habits in influencing human behavior. After learning more about religious behavior, I am all the more excited to visit her church and meet her congregation on Sunday!
06/29/2019
We, the Lumasaaba crew, were invited to meet with a couple current Peace Corps volunteers at the Mount Elgon Hotel, within walking distance of our homes and classroom. The hotel is lovely, the pool is cool and very welcome on this hot day, plus some good food at reasonable prices! There was also quite an energetic wedding going on while we were at the hotel, and we also took that opportunity to learn more about the people, by the people, with the people. It was nice to have some more insight into living in this region, as well as being a Peace Corps Volunteer, without the looming oversight of staff and training expectations.
06/30/2019
Not many Sundays can I boast a five-and-a-half-hour church visit, but here in Africa, it really is just another day! Seriously, I mean five-and-a-half-hours for one service, and this being something that happens most every day of the week. After the service, and being partially deaf in my right ear (the minister preaching with my homestay mother Katherine was very interesting and charismatic, but let’s just say he really didn’t need a microphone), Katherine took myself and my homestay siblings for a local lunch of pork, plantains, and vegetables at a local venue, within walking distance of her church. The afternoon was spent doing the washing and studying more Lumasaaba. And we ended the day watching the Uganda vs. Egypt football match.
07/01/2019
Goodness gracious, am I struggling with language now. I had absolutely no confidence today; it felt like I knew absolutely nothing, and was genuinely paralyzed by the fact that I could understand and translate most everything that was said during practices, but couldn’t formulate a single word to speak myself. After lunch, it was pretty much all self-study for me: working on being more confident in what I should – what I do – know. After coming back to the homestay, I relaxed a bit in bed, thinking about other things, before diving into memorizing more verbs and vocabulary.
07/04/2019
Happy Fourth of July (American Independence Day) to you all! Or belated, as is obviously the case. Today, was more or less a day off from language training for the group. So, we took the day to come together and cook for each other and our host families. There was quite a spread, of both American and Ugandan cuisine. I learned a lot about food preparation and the actual process of cooking with the resources that we have on hand in this country. It was also a fine opportunity to get to know each other a bit more and to bond a bit deeper. The host families have been so warm and welcome and patient with us. Their goodness seems to be without end. And while the others may – or may not – have had a day off from language, I most certainly did not. I worked on a little side project for myself, as another of the photos will attest. Let no one ever say that I am not taking this language learning and responsibility seriously!
07/06/2019
Saturdays are our shorter days, so I’ve found my way to an internet café – at an excellent price! Less than a dollar American to use for the whole day! Before I explain the epic escapade that resulted in my finally, FINALLY being able to post this long blog post, after really studying, practicing, and having some one-on-one time with our instructors, Francis and Beatrice, I actually feel some measure of comfort with Lumasaaba. We have a mock interview to measure our proficiency next week. This is to serve as practice before our official Language Proficiency Interview that takes place our last week of language training. So, please: wish me luck!
Now, for the epic conclusion of “The Epic Adventures in Wifi Searching and Social Media Posting!” Yes, I know… the title needs work… Regardless, to put things simply: here in Uganda, the government has imposed a tax on social media. Basically, for any device that can potentially access the internet, you must pay the OTT tax – daily, weekly, or monthly – to access, interact, and post on those sites. And while it makes sense now, in hindsight, how blogging sites are also a part of social media, but the problem became that I couldn’t pay the social media tax for my computer. And we’ve been so busy, and the options for wireless internet access – with an acceptable connection – were so few and far between.
But for now, I’ve found a fast internet connection, for a very good price. I’ve updated and restarted my computer. I’ve downloaded and have started using a secure VPN, and now here we are. I want to thank everyone of you for your patience. Thank you so much for thinking of me, and asking after me. I hope you find this long post to be educational, entertaining, endearing, and potentially inspiring. Inspiring for you to take the step towards visiting this beautiful, vibrant, and friendly country! The next post is still up in the air; I am not sure when it will be. But with Mbale as my main city center in the region of Bugisu, doubtless I will be able to post at this venue with some measure of frequency. So, until then Wonderful Readers: be well, be wise, be productive and happy, and I look forward to sharing with you again.
Peace, Love, and Uganda 